A Month in Provençe
Sacha and I departed Philadelphia on June 6, arriving Nîce the morning of June 7. Rented a car, an odd-looking Toyota Corolla “Break,” and drove two hours to the house we found just outside the small village of Aups. We’ll be posting pictures as well as drawings and maybe even some writing here.
June 9, Aups/Sillans/Cotignac/Aups.
Got out on my first ride of the trip. When it became clear, early in the Spring, that Sacha and I were actually going to do this, one of the first things I did was look at a map and start looking for the dotted, wiggly lines going from small town to village to commune. I learned quickly that most of these are called chémins: Chémin de Taurenne, Chémin Rural, Chémin des Anciennes Fontaines, etc. I got excited. In my head, I imagined dusty gravel paths, old men with baguettes on bicycles, and donkeys. I know better than to believe my own imagination, but still, I was surprised to realize that a chémin can be, well, pretty much anything, actually. Sure, narrow, mostly unpaved roads as I’d dreamed. But also a chonky dirt path leading straight uphill that would like to eat my bicycle tires. A road that ends at a wall, where someone left a chair as a clue to stand and peer over to find the connecting chémin. A path that becomes a trail that becomes an exercise in bushwacking. A path through tall grass that is nothing but the indication that a car drove through here some time in the recent past.
I love adventure, and for sure, this ride was my kind of ride, but after five days of travel and wine and no bike riding, it was maybe a bit much, and with the route I’d mapped being 35 miles long, it was ambitious. I imagined three hours, and it became more than five.
But don’t feel sorry for me. Really, don’t.
Les Quatre Chemins
the chemin became a path became a trail, and barely even that
Cotignac from above - I went down into town and then back up those cliffs to see the towers visible at the top.
Cotignac
Cotignac
Cotignac
Cotignac
the square in Cotignac where i had a "mini-burger" for lunch
Photos don't do the height of those cliffs justice.
the square in Cotignac
window kitty
when a sign says "secret house," you gotta go see the house
the Secret House.
the cat of the secret house.
The chemin just ended in an olive grove. It took a moment for me to see the chair and the dip in the wall as a clue. Yes, the path I wanted was on the other side. I was not the first to reach this dead-end.
tower selfie
Came across this moto-park. They wouldn't let me on the course with my vélo-gravel.
June 10, Aups.
While it seems and feels like a vacation, Sacha and I are both getting work done while we’re here. In fact, she’s on a zoom right now with clients back in the US.
I’m working on sketches for a book, or a series of books, I’ve been writing. Lots of insects and plants and trees. Today’s project was a documentation of the olive trees here on the property.
June 8, Villecroze.
Villecroze is where Sacha lived with her family for a year in 1979. The whole trip was conceived around returning to the town and memories of her mom and dad living here when she was eight and her sister was five.
The grottos of Villecroze
the Grottos and Park of Villecroze
These signs marking the tree varieties are terra cotta. I love the glazed handwriting
These signs marking the tree varieties are terra cotta. I love the glazed handwriting
Villecroze
Villecroze
Villecroze
Villecroze
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Mon bébé me manque à Philadelphie.
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Go Phils!
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Premier dîner chez nous.
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Perched.
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Thank friggin God!
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Here for it all!

Sacha's school in 1979. Villecroze.
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Sacha's school in 1979. Villecroze.
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Premier petit-déjeuner chez nous
June 7, Aups.
Sacha found this house just outside the village of Aups, and it’s pretty wonderful.
Aups is situated in the Haut Var, the high country just south of the Alps in eastern Provence. It’s more rural than the more touristed Luberon Valley section of Provence, and we’re down with that.
We walked into town the first evening we were here to get the lay of the land and have dinner. Right now everything is new and amazing. It’ll be strange when it all becomes familiar.
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Our house. It's pretty sweet, I admit.
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Olive oil co-op.
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Aups
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Aups: he dropped his wine. I feel bad I snapped the photo at that moment.
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Auberge de la Tour
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Aups
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Lervly
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Auberge de la Tour
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First swim.
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Rosé all day.
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Lovely gift from our host!
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First pissaladière
June 7, Nîce.
We landed in Nice around 11am on 7 June. Rented a car, though not the one in the photo, sadly, and immediately got lost in Nice.
Turned around and drove west to the town of Aups, where we’ll be living for the next month.
Not our actual rental car.
On the Promenade des Anglais, Nice.